HO CHI MINH CITY, Vietnam — As we boarded our van at The Caravelle, I wondered what emotions would surface when I returned to Bien Hoa.
Tom Baca, Al Croteau and I had lived in the same villa on
Cong Le Street — Tom before he was transferred from the 118th
Assault Helicopter Company to the II Field Force (Vietnam) Flight Detachment, Al
and I throughout our tours with the 118th AHC. The company’s call
sign was “Thunderbirds.”
Al commanded the 198th Signal Detachment, which
was attached to the Thunderbirds. Though not a rated pilot, Al flew hundreds of
combat hours, manning door guns on the company’s assault Hueys. What I admired
about Al was he regularly volunteered to fly into combat. That was why he had
flown with me on the Cau Song Be rescue.
Al never got rattled in combat. During the Cau Song Be
mission, his cool head probably kept us alive. He knew what to do and he did
it.
Jack Swickard with Tom Baca and Al Croteau (right) in front of hotel at site of villa in Bien Hoa. |
In 1967, Al lived down the hall from me in the villa. By any
standard, we lived well. Two officers lived in each room, which had ceiling
fans and bathrooms. In the back of the villa, where I lived, the rooms also had
doors opening onto a large patio.
Over the years, at Vietnam Helicopter Pilots Association
reunions, a Thunderbird would tell us how he had gone back to Vietnam recently
and found the villa. The last report I had heard about the villa was several
years earlier. In the report, it had been converted to an apartment building,
with families living in the rooms.
As Tom, Al and I headed back to Bien Hoa, we had no idea
what to expect. More than 40 years had passed.
Larry Liss had not lived in the Thunderbird villa, but down
Cong Le Street in a villa that housed officers from II Field Force (Vietnam).
Tom had moved into the same villa after transferring from the Thunderbirds.
Larry wasn’t with us as our van headed to Bien Hoa. He had
not joined us in The Caravelle lobby before departing. At the time, I thought
he and his wife, Celeste, had other plans.
This past weekend, Richard Max, the documentary’s producer,
wrote about our return to Vietnam.
“I have enjoyed
reading your Vietnam blog and think you must have been taking accurate notes
about our shared documentary filmmaking journey as it all comes flooding back
to me. I, too, was particularly moved by how much Al had been haunted by the
one left behind, as well as Larry’s almost physical reaction to going back,”
Richard wrote.
Larry added to
Richard’s remembrance with an email.
Larry and Celeste Liss in Vung Tau. |
“An interesting note
by Richard about my ‘physical reaction’ to being ‘back in Saigon.’ I remember
that Richard was concerned about my well-being and came to our suite to be with
me (and Celeste). It was true. I was experiencing being dizzy and weak and just
wanted to hide under the covers,” Larry wrote. “I was dealing with many ‘pictures’
from the past. Saigon in the 1960s, itself, was not a pleasant experience for
me. I had been in two bar explosions over about 12 months. I could never allow
myself to get comfortable back in the ’60s.
“The only place in
all of Vietnam that I felt really on-guard was Saigon. I didn't feel
uncomfortable anywhere else, even if the action was more dangerous,” Larry
said.
“I flew into Saigon
a number of times and, on my second or third time, I was sitting in a well-known
bar and restaurant near our embassy when a bomb went off just outside the front
window. It was a mess. Many dead and wounded. I just got a couple of glass cuts,”
Larry said. “From then on in, I didn’t stray very far from the heliport (Hotel
3) and the officer’s club. I know that I was in many more dangerous places, but
I never felt so ‘on-guard’ as I did in Saigon.
“That was back in 1966-68.
I was in Saigon with General Fred Weyand during Tet 1968 and that made it even
worse because the VC and NVA were everywhere,” Larry said.
“When we arrived this
time, I was shaking uncontrollably for the first few days. I felt safe in the
hotel, although I was very clear that this was the same Caravelle Hotel that
was bombed in 1964. Whatever it was that was stuck in my mind, passed and I was
OK again,” Larry said.
Looking for villa
Tom, Al and I spent more than an hour trying to find the
villa on Cong Le Street. The only landmarks we could find were a fountain and
footbridge that had been in the courtyard. When we saw them near a fence in
October 2008, they were far from where we thought the villa should be.
Richard Max |
With a video camera following us, we walked through alleys
and up and down streets. Finally, Tom saw the villa where he and Larry had
lived after leaving the Thunderbirds. When we got our bearings, we discovered a
hotel had been built on the site of the 118th AHC villa. On a
second-floor balcony, we could look out over a familiar roofline.
There were several reasons we could not locate the villa:
The building no longer existed, the small, alley-like street that ran through
the compound in 1967 had been widened into a main thoroughfare with four lanes
of traffic, and the street had been renamed.
Cameraman Stuart Dunn and Richard Max got some good chase
scenes as we looked for the villa, but there was not much to trip our memories
until we drove through other parts of Bien Hoa. I saw the cinema we passed
daily on the way to the flight line in the 1960s. The water tower still stood outside
the airfield gate. Some buildings near the water tower looked the same, but
overall it was not a memorable trip down memory lane.
We returned to Ho Chi Minh City and The Caravelle in time
for Richard and Stuart to film an interview with Al in the late afternoon sun.
While Tom, Renee and I drank a beer in the hotel’s Saigon
Saigon Bar, Al would describe what Richard later told me was “the soul of the
documentary.”
CONTINUED
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